Selection Guide
Switching your commercial space from fluorescent to LED linear tubes can cut lighting energy use by half or more, but the savings hinge on choosing the right tube.
From plug-and-play retrofits to ballast-bypass and remote-driver systems, we'll help you match the technology, specs, and rebate eligibility to your building so the upgrade pays off from day one.
Upgrading from fluorescent to LED linear tubes starts with one decision: how the tube gets its power. Type A (plug-and-play) tubes run on your existing fluorescent ballast,
so the swap is as simple as changing a lamp which is ideal for small jobs and quick wins, though you'll still pay to power a ballast that can eventually fail. Type B (ballast bypass)
tubes are wired directly to line voltage with the ballast removed, delivering the highest efficiency and leaving nothing but the tube to ever fail; the tradeoff is a licensed electrician and attention
to shunted versus non-shunted sockets. Type C pairs the tube with a dedicated remote driver for the best dimming, flicker control, and longevity, making it the right call for spaces with controls or
premium performance requirements. Many buyers phasing a building hedge with hybrid A+B tubes, which install on the ballast today and bypass later.
Once you've chosen a path, match the tube to the fixture and the application rather than the old wattage. Specify by lumens, not watts, keeping in mind that a 12 to 15-watt
LED typically replaces a 32-watt fluorescent while delivering the same light. Also, confirm the tube size and base (T8 with a G13 bi-pin base is the commercial standard), the length,
and a universal 120–277V input. Dial in the look of the space with color temperature (3500K to 5000K, or selectable-CCT tubes that keep your options open) and color quality
(80+ CRI for general areas, 90+ for retail, medical, or detail work). Finally, protect your budget: choose DLC-listed products, opting for DLC Premium where available, so the project qualifies for utility rebates.